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Growing pumpkins
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A 'Jack be Little' pumpkin
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I really don't know why we've grown pumpkins. I'll admit straight out
that I don't like pumpkins. Never have. I refused to eat pumpkin soup
at my own wedding. So why have I grown them (other than the seeds were
free from the Digger's Club)?
We once grew Butternut pumpkins (using the plural form "pumpkins"
loosely as we only harvested one pumpkin). The plant kept growing runners
at a slightly slower speed compared to the encroaching powdery mildew.
Eventually the powdery mildew won and the plant only got around to producing
one lovely butternut pumpkin. I can't remember now how it was used in
cooking, but the vague memories I have are f(l)avourable.
Again we worked on the assumption that we're more inclined to eat our
own produce so we grew pumpkins again. This time it was the variety "Jack
be Little". These pumpkins, as their name implies, mature as miniature
versions. They're small enough for a single person to eat as part of dinner.
We had some pretty good success. But we haven't grown pumpkins in the
last two years.
Growing conditions
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Pumpkins grow in the warmer months of the year. From an Australian
perspective I guess most pumpkins are harvested in the American fall
for Halloween. Of course we harvest them anywhere from February to
April.
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Pumpkins will grow in full sun or partial shade.
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They love an organically rich free draining soil mixed with manures
and compost.
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In a 4 bed rotation system pumpkins
are grown with summer vegies like sweet corn, cucumbers, zucchini
and melons. Try to grow your corn in the same bed as pumpkins. They
love each other and grow strongly together as companions.
Garden care
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It's usually easiest to directly sow your seed where you want your
pumpkins to grow. Create a foot wide mound of soil about an inch taller
than the surrounding soil. Plant 3 or 4 pumpkin seeds as deep as your
first knuckle.
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It'll break your heart but it's important to thin the seedlings down
to 1 or 2 plants.
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Pumpkins are very susceptible to hot days. Make sure you keep the
water up to them on warmer days, otherwise you'll see the pumpkin
leaves wilting in the sun.
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Feed them fortnightly with a potash and liquid manure drink.
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It's common when there aren't many bees around for the female flowers
to not form fruit. The bulge behind the flower turns brown and the
"mini-pumpkin" drops off. If this happens you might need
to hand pollinate the flowers yourself. Using a cotton tip get the
pollen from the male flower (no bulge behind the petals) and spread
it over the female "crown" inside the flower. This should
increase your chances of harvesting pumpkins.
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The main disease problem with pumpkins is powdery mildew on the leaves
(which eventually kills the plant). Avoid watering overhead in the
afternoon. Spray with an organic wettable sulphur spray. This tends
to stop the problem spreading.
Harvest time
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In around 3 to 4 months you can start harvesting your pumpkins.
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Using a knife or scissors cut the pumpkin from the vine. Make sure
you leave a good 4 to 5 inches (10-15cms) of vine connected to the
pumpkin. This minimises deterioration to the pumpkin during storage.
Pumpkins can easily be kept in a cool dry place for 6 months.
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Harvest pumpkins before your first frost (if you get any).
Last Updated
17 November, 2008
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